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Soldotna, and a History Lesson

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SOLDOTNA – Churned out 26 recreational miles today pedaling up the coast about 7 miles to the small town of Kenai.

That town’s famous for its Russian Orthodox Church, The Holy Assumption of the Virgin Mary, which is dated to 1881 and had a chalky blue onion-shaped dome on top of the cupola.

I spun back to Soldotna for a bunch of appointments; one included a personal tour of the Soldotna Historic Museum.
My guide, Marge Mullen, was an original homesteader having settled in Soldotna in 1947 when she was 27 years old.
“I just turned 93 years old the other day,” said Marge. She moved around with ease and was dressed comfortably in a collared pink button-up blouse, matching pink earrings and white walking shoes.
“I feel good but I feel 93 in the mornings,” she said, wasting no time with small talk launching into the history tour.
We stayed indoors long enough to review the flag of Alaska which was designed in 1927 by a 13-year-old orphan, Benny Benson.. “It’s the Great North Star and the Big Dipper on a deep blue background representing Alaska’s sky and forget-me-not flower,” said Marge describing the flag.
“Benny won a watch and $1,000 and he grew up to be an aviation mechanic,” she said.
We hopped around to a couple other displays including an Eskimo cookbook opened to a page on how to make homemade ice cream. There was also a mock up of a deed from 1867 when William H. Seward, Secretary of State, on behalf of President Andrew Johnson, purchased Alaska from Russia for $7.2 million.
“That ended up being about 2 cents an acre,” said Marge. Alaska became a state in 1959.
We continued the tour outdoors, walking from cabin to cabin. Marge pointing out flowers on the forest floor. “That’s an imitation dog wood – the white one with four pedals,” she said.
As we entered one of the homesteader cabins I was shocked how clean the men kept it. “You sense a woman’s touch do ya,” said Marge dryly.
I noticed Marge appreciated the relaxed nature of the tour;  she took my sarcasm in stride, but it threw her off her rehearsed speech.
She’d pick up every time saying, “I have to say one more thing” ….and she’d find her groove again and move on to her next display.
“This Montgomery Ward catalog was entertainment and extremely useful to homesteaders,” said Marge pointing out the $3 bargain for a nice pair of girls pants.
Old Montgomery Ward catalog
“I remember when my husband and I first settled here we’d rip Time magazine in half – we were so hungry to learn what was going on in the world.”
“There were days we’d order 100 chicks in a box – they’d come delivered in little compartments,” she said, smiling.
Marge commented and gently touched items as she went. “These curtains were made from feed bags, this Coleman lantern was key to survival and you were uptown when you got a Maytag ringer washer,” she said.
“After you took your supplies out of the box, you used the box for shelving.”
“The simple bucket was also important to homesteaders; it could haul items, bring in fresh water and we all drank out of the same ladle and never got hydrophobia,” said Marge.
You could tell she had frontier spirit; no time for nonsense, weakness, or dawdlers.
A volunteer at the Historic Museum the last seven years, it was interesting to note while Marge was telling stories about the original homesteaders she’d refer to them as ‘he was a good friend of mine.’
I felt privileged to be hearing the stories first hand from someone who WAS actually there.

FOLLOWUP:  Got this lovely email from Marge’s daughter shortly after this visit…

“Judy – You and my mother, Marge, had a lovely visit at the Homestead Museum in Soldotna today. She enjoyed hearing about your adventures and your writing efforts. If you need a place to stay on your way back through Soldotna, we would like to offer our spare room, in exchange for just a few more stories. ……………Homer is such a beautiful place and the people are so interesting that we may not see you for weeks!” Peggy Mullen

Side notes: 
– My most valuable pieces of clothing have been my earmuffs, my neck gator and my XL Hefty garbage bag.
– Spent the night at College Heights Baptist Church in Soldotna. I owned the floor in the nursery. It was a four-star establishment. I slept like a baby.
– Gas is up over $4.09 for a gallon of regular unleaded.

– I haven’t read a paper in four days. It’s an indescribable feeling that is not fun at all – I’d much rather know what’s going on and Facebook just doesn’t do it for me.

Meet Father Thomas — Kenai Day Trip

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Day trip north 7 mi. to Kenai. Visited the historic Holy Assumption of the Virgin Mary Church which dates to 1881. There is an enormous chandelier in the center of church; however, it was not original to the church. It was built in the early 1800s in Irkutsk, Russia, sent to a cathedral in Kodiak; that church burned in 1943 and the chandelier was brought to Kenai. It then survived the 1964 Good Friday earthquake.

Father Thomas at the Holy Assumption of the Virgin Mary Russian Orthodox Church. It was small. People stand during service. I asked about other historic buildings and pointed across the street. Rev. Thomas said that was a private residence. I let go a big sigh and started a soap-box rant about losing history and the lack of effort to maintain historic status.  Rev. Thomas whispers, “That’s my home.” I’m like – “…way to go man! Way to work that into your church contract. Short walk to work! Cheers you!”  :-/

KENAI VISITORS CENTER: At the visitors center in Kenai. Red glass candle holder from Russian Orthodox Church established in Kenai in 1791. Priests traveled in bidarkas, accompanied by a song leader and rower.

Moose vs Car

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Stopped at a junkyard in Soldotna, AK today to see if I could find a vehicle that lost to a moose. 

Car vs. Moose – they both lost. Not a fatal according to Jennifer at Soldotna Auto Salvage but note there is basically no damage to the hood – it’s all the windshield and roof where the tall moose fell. There were three other cars on the lot with similar damage.

Along the Way….

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YEAH! Classic Rock at the FUSE. 106.9 FM. Soldotna. Friday 11 a.m. No cars in the parking lot. 
Must be automation..


Hot coffee and some mapping outside Veronica’s Coffee House in Kenai about 10 mi. North of Soldotna.


Flowers are brilliant this year in AK – or so I’m told. These are outside Victoria’s Coffee House….


At least two of my friends will be jealous – I just got a behind-the-scenes tour of the Alaskan State Troopers HQ in Soldotna. This is Mike Wilson; he was on the show when an old lady hit a moose and he had to put the animal down.

Mike Wilson



I’m still not even a week into the tour and I’m already overloaded. People keep giving me things. My bags are packed tight so the only way to carry any more is to double bag and tie it on. I feel like a sherpa….

I’m Not a Bear Fan

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I was told by several people that at this location, 
at the entrance to the city, a bear would jump out of 
its home in the ditch line. There was a ditch and a lot 
of brush. I decided to risk it. 
But as you can see - 
I'm quite a distance from the sign because I'm standing 
closer to the road than anything..................


Alaskan Chainsaw Carousel

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Along the Sterling Highway there was the Alaskan Carousel
A chainsaw artist carved the whole carousel.


Green and Gold Diplomacy

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COOPER LANDING – Of all the tours, Alaska has been one to really test my fortitude. The cool temps have been a challenge (lots of changes out of sweaty clothes to stay warm in 50-degree temps) as well as the hilly terrain.
It’s the people and the conversation therapy that have helped….. along with the Green Bay Packers.
After a tough day at the office Wednesday I pulled into my destination city of Cooper Landing. It was no easy feat.
Holiday traffic combined with road construction made for a dicey situation, especially since there was no shoulder on the two-lane road. I mean none. There was nothing to ride on.
There were hand-painted signs, ‘Cooper Landing Drives 35.’ They were placed about every half mile. I must have been the only one to see them.
Bucking biker safety code, I crossed the road and faced oncoming traffic.
That was a good idea – said nobody, ever.
The cars didn’t like it, but at least I could see what was coming.
About 4 miles into town I pulled over at a construction site to determine what wizard laid out this plan. Granted I was tired, hungry and frustrated and I already felt sorry for the person in the trailer.
That’s where I met Donny. Sitting alone, counting the minutes until he could start his holiday and he was forced to deal with this.
He totally disarmed me by smiling and then agreeing with everything I said.
This was a state project and plans had been in the works for more than 40 years to add a small shoulder or path or bike lane – it just never got done.
I fumed some more, Donny responded with a smile and the understanding of a therapist. He knew my rant in a biker helmet and spandex was just a natural outpouring of stress.
On to Plan B, which was to ask Donny if I could sleep in his empty construction trailer for the night. The fact it was a state trailer didn’t dissuade me; I just needed a floor and a roof and a locked door.
No go, and I knew it going in. Donny assured me I’d find something – he also advised me to stick to walking my bike on the side of the road.
Very disheartened, still tired and not happy, I walked 50 yards up from the construction trailer and right into a mailbox post with a weathered old cheese head on top.  There was also a small, faded Green Bay Packer flag attached to the pole.
I felt like I’d struck gold.
Making my way down the driveway, I find this guy in headphones and mowing the lawn in a Packer sweatshirt. It was Rick.
We chatted at length about the Packers, how he got to Alaska and where he was from.
Born in St. Cloud, Wisconsin and a 1977 graduate of New Holstein High School.
What are the chances?  My dad was born in St. Cloud, grew up in the Holy Land and was also a graduate of New Holstein High School.
This was a winning opportunity for me and that’s when I hit Rick with the request to throw my bedroll down in his garage for the night.
Rick made the official decision – – to go get his wife.

Rick and Mary
After some front-porch conversation Mary agreed – but she said they had a cabin by the lake and I would be more comfortable there.
Plus, I didn’t learn until later, I was treading on some pretty thin ice – asking to sleep in the man cave.
What gracious hosts and an awesome place! 
Next morning Mary and Rick fixed a breakfast of eggs, wheat toast, blueberries, and hot coffee.
Mary designed their house. “I wanted a big kitchen because when you have family over they always end up in the kitchen,” she said.
Mary also had a flair for orchids; a beautiful soft purple orchid rose from the center island in the kitchen and a white orchid flowered in the kitchen window.
Mary graduated New Holstein the year after Rick. They were high school sweethearts that moved to Alaska more than 25 years ago. “I think there are about seven couples from New Holstein that live out here,” she said.
Rick worked for the phone company and Mary was a caregiver to a 91-year-old woman who lived five miles down the road.
The couple had grown children, a daughter who was a nurse in Denver, CO and a son who served in Afghanistan and Iraq and was now living with his wife in Idaho.
“I remember going to a Rolling Stones concert at Milwaukee County Stadium,” reminisced Mary. She also vaguely remembered all-things-Fond du Lac, including The Mad Hatter record store, Joe’s Fox Hut, and Walleye Weekend.
“Rick still has his turntable and records in the garage,” said Mary.
After a busy breakfast, picture taking, route confirmation and goodbyes, we also determined my cousin, Donny Hammer, was in their class in high school.
How odd to find neighbors 3,000 miles away from home.

My Office Away From Home

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This is my work space while biking in Alaska. 
Yup, it’s a mess but at least it’s dry.

The Real Thing….

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Approaching Soldotna there were a lot of roadside stands 

selling moose antlers, rocks and chainsaw carvings.


Tusks...
Note card reads: "Alaskan Woolly Mammoth Ivory is over 10,000 years old. 
Preserved in permafrost.
It is still useful for artwork. 
Colors vary from antique white to brown and blue."