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Pirgo: A step back in time

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A day at Pirgo was a wonderful experience. Arrived by steam train. Visiting Central Hall where people danced in the evening surrounded by the aroma of fried donuts and freshly baked bread.

People strolled the piers. Soldiers snapped to salute while elegant women sought shelter from the sun under their umbrellas.

Pirgo attracted famous visitors; among them a convalescent Italian general Garibaldi and the charming, Italian opera soprano, Lina Cavalieri.

During summer, the best local families would be dancing under the moon.

Poor suckers….

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After the great war, many things changed, especially for women – who started smoking in public. Their bathing suits got shorter and younger women (in their 20s) started to show off a new identity.

Also, swimming as a sport became huge in part because of cinema news and commentaries from the Berlin Olympics in 1936.

Apparently young people have fun telling “poor suckers” that they’ve beaten swimming world records. And those armed with goggles search calm waters in the morning for lost jewelry and rings.

Time for a Landscape Change: Heading North

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Changing landscape as I head north along the coast out of Rome. It’s a dicey start to the day on what feels like the “I-system.” Heading on to the small town of Fregene, and then back to the countryside.

PHOTO GALLERY:

Finding Nemo

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Brilliant colors today. Nearly 40 miles in already and it’s not even noon yet. Saturday must be a big day for bicycling. Everybody yells “Ciao!” When they pass. Found Nemo on an underpass as I went to find more water.


Headed to Parma…..CIAO!

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Packed tight and ready to roll. Now that I’ve conquered Rome I’m headed back up the coast and then over to Parma. Ciao!


TIDBITS

  • So wonderful to wake up in the morning and hear French, Italian, Spanish and quirky dialects of English. Campgrounds are such a melting pot of weary, but enthusiastic, explorers!
  • In Italy, they pronounce WiFi as “wee fee.”

Lock it or lose it

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June 12, 2025 – Rome, Italy – Got up with the sunrise to try and tackle Rome by bike. I took the bus the day before and just didn’t cover the distance.

On a bit of an insider note, big cities intimidate me a little. There’s a nervous apprehension of getting lost along with the excitement of discovering new things.

 

I wanted to find the Coliseum. I met people from Texas who had the same thing in mind. We chatted about our travels in Italy and then I was a big showoff and took advantage of a friendly Roman soldier in full on red feather helmet, breast plate, sandals and sword.

Everybody else could see this coming – I was such a rube. We fought with swords. He was ready to slit my throat; it was like playing with a character from Disney. That’ll be 5 Euro,” he said. That totally wrecked it for me and I declined. Seriously, if I owned that outfit I’d be walking around in it all the time just to make people happy.

After photos outside the Coliseum, I found a well-marked bike path; several paths actually. One that ran along the FiumeTevere river and another that curved through a park-like setting with a canopy of trees.

One of the things I was ill prepared for was the strength of a bike lock. I brought my cute little scout lock and I’ve noticed everyone, even the motor scooters, have industrial locks.

Faggioui caught me taking a photo of his bike and lock, and stepped outside to school me on rampant bike thefts in Italy. “I had a Cannondale (read – expensive bike) stolen and it was locked,” he said.

Traveling solo, I use my wimpy lock when I jump into the grocery or just step into a church for a photo. I’ve also taken to pulling the front wheel and taking it with me, but some places like the Coliseum, wouldn’t allow the wheel so I just suffice in touring other things like the bridge of angels, the Olympic field or the Pantheon.


Tomorrow, it’s on to Parma!

VIDEO: A Little Flavor From Rome

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Just a little flavor from Rome: At the end of my 37-mile bicycle tour today in 
Rome I came upon this street musician. He was just to the south of St. Peter's 
Basilica. Note the balancing act in the background.


No, thanks – I have Italy to explore

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Found this way cool track-and-field facility. The signs on the wall talk about the Olympics. The track has a red clay surface and the terraced stone stands would make for some uncomfortable seating. The field marshal is wagging her finger and saying “no no.”
I think she assumes I’m trying to take my bike on her track. Not today, I have roads in Italy to explore.

My future’s so bright, I have to wear shades

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Made it to the Colosseo! Ran into some people from Texas along the way. My face in this picture should relay how sunny it is in Italy.


Met some angels today

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Attempting to do Rome today by bike. The tour of the Vatican was great and all but I just didn’t make my way around the city like I planned. So I headed out early to beat the heat and armed with a map and a bit of a kattywompus sense of direction….I’m going to give it a go. This pic was taken on the bridge next to the Castel San Angelo. The bridge is lined with large statues of angels. Some have harps or wreaths or a robe; all have their wings.