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Anchorage with a little “Alaskan Nice” and Breakfast at Gwennie’s

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ANCHORAGE – Touchdown at the Ted Stevens Anchorage InternationalAirport in Anchorage was at 3 a.m. Saturday following a five-hour flight from Denver.  The adventure included an unscheduled one-hour delay because of severe cloud-to-cloud lightning, an impromptu refueling and a sanity-testing, 59-minute wait on the tarmac while 30 other planes (also delayed) queued up ahead of us.
Ina in Baggage Claim at the Anchorage airport was there to help with some conversation therapy at 4:30 a.m. offering an easy bicycle route out of the airport.
She also was ‘Alaskan nice’ and invited me to breakfast after she got off work at 7 a.m.

 

We met at Gwennie’s Old Alaska Restaurant which was the perfect non-franchise venue of history mixed with genuine “way-up-nort” hospitality and huge portions of everything.
Their slogan should have included something like ‘enough food to feed a mining camp’ or ‘a to-go box with every meal.’
Located on Spenard Road about two-miles north of the airport, I pedaled over and met Eina, her husband, Lou, and three-year-old son.

Ina, 26, was Samoan. She was born in Hawaii, moved to Houston, TX in grade school, visited Alaska after high school and stayed after she met her husband, who was also Samoan.

The layout at our table included little room for condiments much less bad manners because the buttermilk pancakes were as big as a baby’s head and the waffles were the size of a checkerboard. There were heaps of scrambled eggs and (Did I mention what happens to Santa’s engine during the off season?) reindeer sausage.

 
 A breakfast of scrambled eggs, side dish of salsa, hashbrowns, 
small fresh orange wedge, and two dark pieces of inch thick sourdough toast.

Actually, I passed on the reindeer sausage when the waitress refused to budge on the special side-order price of $13.  (I didn’t want the whole deer – just a link.)  She stood her ground, so I figured I’d come across a more accommodating morsel somewhere later down the road. No reindeer sausage for you!

Gwennie’s was a two-story restaurant filled with Alaskan heritage. A giant stuffed-bison head overlooked our table – I must say it was a little too close for comfort.
There were gold mining pans and newspaper clippings on the wall that included details of the former owner who ran a gambling place /whorehouse at the site.
From 1972 – 1981 the Pagoda was a quiet tea room on the first floor with serious revenue generated on the second.

A framed article at the entrance said the working girls ‘didn’t look like typical prostitutes. They wore Sorrel boots and a big jacket over jeans and sweatshirts. They really don’t get too dressed up for the job.’

Gwennie’s Old Alaska Restaurant

 

Feeling a Little “Alaska” Out Here…..

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 Got my map out.  Getting my bearings at 3 a.m. 
Stepped outside – it’s a little cool.  
Alaska outside….

Welcome to Alaska!

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Landed safely at 3 a.m. Alaskan time. Found a map. 

Getting my bearings and assembling my transportation for the next three weeks.



All my bags are packed…I’m ready to go – literally!

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All packed. Waiting on my front stoop for my ride.
Flight leaves at 6:10 p.m.
I’m SO ready!

Last minute frenzy – Plane departs Friday 6:10 p.m.

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Tying up loose ends.

                         Helpful directions from experienced Alaskan traveler Shirley Schoenike

I am TOTALLY amazed how many people are already following the tour. My phone has been ringing off the hook with well wishes and prayers.

Mostly prayers and mostly prayers about bears. Which sounds very Dr. Seuss, I know.

I spent a majority of the afternoon with my neighbors Jack and Shirley Schoenike. I didn’t know they lived down the road – they heard about the tour and sought me out. They’ve been to Alaska about a half-dozen time and invited me over to map.

Shirley suggested I set aside five hours – we got it done in three.

I envy their tours, just a little bit. They’re not bikers but lean towards a luxury motor home.

Jack drives and Shirley has ninja-like mapping skills. Her Milepost was missing the back cover, had notes between the columns and scribbled on large bodies of water, and red-and-orange circles highlighted some memorable attractions. See below.

The couple set me up with eight pages of typed instructions outlining the areas I would likely visit. The notes were specific, color coded with red-pen asterisks and yellow highlighted sentences, and more handwritten notes in the margin.

Homer – Salty Dawg Saloon (interesting)  or Centennial Park – $25 showers and flush toilets  or  Whittier Tunnel – ***NO BIKES*** (Tunnel Manager M-F 907-472-2584)

Shirley was connected – – she could seriously sell these Cliff Notes on Amazon!

While it’s been a hot mad-dash scramble this past week things are pretty much on course. My friends have been checking in expressing concern about my packing skills, my timeline and my sanity.

In a T-minus-24-hours-til-liftoff conversation with my mother she appears confident to hold down the fort. She had no questions other than to tell me my lawn looks shaggy, I should really cut it before I go and do I ever plan to finish painting my front porch?

This from the woman who would wipe the drops out of the sink before she went on vacation.

My good friend Lisa took the day off work Friday just to take me to the airport. We’re leaving between noon and 1 p.m.

My flight leaves at 6:10 p.m.  I know, eye roll, who would have EVER pegged me for a nervous traveler.

The correct answer is nobody.

Less than a week until Alaskan tour begins

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WARNING – Serious Packing Zone


I ran my typical pre-tour scenario this week and pretended to leave on Friday – although I really fly out next Friday. Surprisingly – I wasn’t ready.
I mangled one of my bike boxes and had to get another. The TSA lock I got for my gun case didn’t fit, my ATM numbers don’t work, I can’t find my plastic map case and at his rate I’m starting to wonder how I’ve managed to get through the past few years of life.
It’s 4:16 p.m. Saturday afternoon and I seriously need to buckle down and started packing. I have to really focus, categorize my gear. Making some space on the floor in the living room I moved my bike-tour photo album and was slightly distracted for a little more than an hour reliving past adventures. 
I roll my eyes at some of the ridiculous things I’ve done and sigh at what a nut job I am – although my friends think I’m cool.  
 One of the few less-than-cool adventures when I hitched a ride and sat in the back
   of a pickup. “This is why nobody wants to come with you,” said a friend.

              

5:19 p.m. – Back on task. I’ve paired down my tools to just the essentials. Plastic tire irons, (which is an oxymoron); allen wrenches, inner tube repair kit, pliers, and a zip-lock bag of nigeldy stuff like screws, spoke nipples, and chain links.
5:42 p.m. Tried to space out where to safely place my cash money, spare credit card, ATM card, and emergency numbers. You can only stash so much on yourself, the bike, and the gear. I try to be very Dick Tracey – I roll up $20 and pull off the plug at the end of my handlebar and slide some money in a plastic bag up the tube. Then, to best transport some spare parts, I tape extra spokes to the frame by the back wheel.


7:05 p.m. Had to run to Menard’s for another TSA lock. I downloaded instructions off the Internet on how to safely travel with a gun. Having a copy of the rules in hand when checking in at the airport was the number one key to success. The other, is to have a Plan B. So, even though I’m concerned about the weight of everything I’ll have two locks. Another key was to take a photo of the gun and box and download that to a thumb drive along with the registration number and having my name and cell number written all over the case.
7:13 p.m.  Some Martha-Stewart insight on packing. I tightly roll my clothes instead of folding them. It’s more efficient that way. I have two panniers – read: luggage carriers for a bike. The panniers hook on to a back rack. I don’t carry much, six tour jerseys – which is a lot but I only plan on wearing three and I’ll give away the others to people who help me on tour. I have three black padded bike shorts, three socks, three sport bras, spandex pants and a heavier long-sleeved shirt, a sleeveless jacket and biking shoes. I’m also planning what to wear to the airport – so I’ll set that aside. An interesting note – I hook safety pins to every zipper on my gear. It’s an old Indian trick.
  
This is my daily uniform – jersey, shorts, socks, sport bra and shoes
The bicycle fashion handbook says NO to underwear with Spandex shorts.

7:58 p.m.  Not really sure about the safety-pin thing really being an Indian trick. But it makes for a good story and because I’m rather well traveled, people buy it. I make sure some of my electronics are working and this time I’m traveling with the power cords. Last time I packed them with my clothes when I went to New Zealand. When my gear went missing for 26 days – I struggled coming up with a way to power up and still file stories on deadline.  
 

8:21 p.m. Had to run out again for something. Berated myself for having to make another trip – just not efficient. But, then I told myself to relax – I was going on vacation soon. I listened to my laid-back self and bought a Powerball ticket. An extra $125 million would be a nice thing to fall back on this tour. Returned to home base and packed my utility kit – which is a mini-me version of toiletries like a 3 oz. bottle of shampoo, a dinky box of dental floss, razor, some random Band-Aides, Neosporin, a tiny tube of Crest and I’ve cut the handle off my toothbrush and trimmed it to just 2 inches of business. Seriously it’s all about the weight. 

9:30 p.m. I’ve cut one bike box in half, lined up my tent, sleeping bag, and new Cabala’s air mattress (which is about the size of a travel coffee mug). A fresh roll of Duct Tape will be on standby until Friday. I’ll take black marker and tag the box tomorrow.
10:41 p.m.  Weary – but now making a draft card of emergency contact numbers and addresses. I was going to send thank-you notes to people who donated to the tour but instead I’ll mail postcards from Alaska. Seriously, when was the last time you got a postcard??  I hope the card and entertaining updates will make supporters feel glad they got involved.

Fox 6 Interview – Readying For the Road Trip

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Did an interview with Laura Langema of Fox 6 Milwaukee this week – 10 days and counting!  Read the FULL article HERE and watch the video below –

“Although he has Alzheimer’s, Judy’s nearly 90-year-old father has never forgotten how to ride a bicycle. 

The two bike side by side together every week. 

“Just talking to her, and being with her, and showing her around, and all that,” says Al. 

It’s those priceless moments with her dad that will keep Judy pedaling during her 1,500 mile adventure.”

13 days and counting until Alaska tour

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                               Historic Russian Orthodox Church in Ninilchik, AK
                                            Photo credit to alaska-travel.net

Getting into crunch time as the tour is just a couple weeks away. I’m rushing to complete last minute arrangements such as secure a correct pin number for my ATM-debit card, craft a bike box, track down a TSA-approved lock, complete a cheat sheet for team back home, etc.

Last weekend I graduated H6 and H7 handgun training at Personal Protection Academy. I feel very confident thanks to instructor Michael Bender and his meticulous training.

This week I’m pretending I leave on Friday (even though I don’t) so I get everything done that’s needed. Throw into the mix spending some time over the weekend with my dad for Father’s Day and then getting a call from Fox 6 in Milwaukee. Reporter Laura Langemo will be coming out Monday to do a story on the tour and help us rally support!

Behind the scenes there was this little tidbit as I searched for a place to stay my first night in Anchorage.
The first day basically involves me getting grounded. The timezone change and an extremely long day from takeoff to making my final destination are normally exhausting.

Anyway, I read reviews on the seven youth hostels in Anchorage and all said 1) drug haven and 2) bedbugs.  I’ve already experienced both and don’t need a refresher – so blindly I Googled ‘bike stores in Anchorage.’

I messaged a brief update about my tour, asked about purchasing bike tires and then queried a reference for churches or some couch surfing.

The letter I received June 10 was AMAZING!  See below.

Hi Judy –


You are welcome to stay with us. You’ll have your own room and separate bath, wifi access & good coffee (or tea if you prefer). Our garage is large enough that you can explode your equipment there. As a bonus, we’re going fishing the weekend before you come up so we should have some fresh salmon for you to experience – my husband, Jon, cooks salmon better than anyone I’ve met.

Would love to see what your itinerary looks like. Maybe we can hook you up with other cycling friends in other towns. We may even be able to give you a lift from the airport. One of us Paramount people can help determine whether your tires should be replaced and offer information for your trip.

I did visit your website. I grew up in Wisconsin – in Elroy – and lived in Milwaukee for about 7 or 8 years before moving here. By coincidence, my mom has Alzheimer’s and is also 89 years old… She lives in a memory-care home in central Wisconsin, but good memory care places are tough to find – that’s another story.

For a bit about me, you can see my much-neglected blog: http://akbikegirl.blogspot.com/ (some of the pieces cover a trip Jon & I made to Wisc. last fall.) You might like the stories about the little tour I did a couple years ago biking from O’Hare to Elroy on a solo trip or the mountain bike trip we did with some friends in Utah. They are listed under “Stories” on the right sidebar.

Be in touch and let me know if you have any questions about things to bring or what you may need to buy when you get here.

Cheer!
Rose

18 days and counting until Alaska tour

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                              Colorful northern lights displays can produce red, purple and blue patterns.  
                                                         ©Visit Anchorage/Wayne Johnson

Borrowed today’s photo from the Official Anchorage, Alaska Travel Information website. Starting to cobble together my gear –  throwing my jerseys, padded shorts, tools and other supplies on the living room floor. 

Behind the scenes I’m prepping my emergency contact list for my team back home should I lose a credit card, have bike issues, or need medical advice. A solid home team is a big plus – – as can be seen from the last tour from Florida to Wisconsin where I unknowingly made friends with bed bugs and some guy at a diner gave me a gun??

Getting my finances in order now which means checking my ATM card and finding out I have no idea what the correct pin number is. 

Still in a minor panic as I await my concealed carry license from Utah – I sent in my forms and a $51 check last March.

The fundraising for Alzheimer’s activities at Cedar Community in West Bend has drawn a great response. The tour jersey looks awesome! Sponsors and supporters have been very generous and now I’m in the midst of a radio sales campaign. *Check out the latest testimonial from one of my former student interns – scroll down the left-hand column.

I’m also contacting tourism officials in Alaska to see if I can freelance some articles on their behalf.

Friends have hooked me up with some of their relatives and hoping word of mouth will help me secure safe places to stay. Mostly I’m excited for the adventure!

Stay tuned!

Man Woman Wild

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                                                Survival skills on display 

A friend of mine and I were chatting about the upcoming tour in Alaska and she suggested I have adventures like the couple on the Discovery Channel show ‘Man, Woman, Wild.’
The TV show basically shows off survival skills of Mykel Hawke, a former US Army Special Forces survival expert, and his television journalist wife, Ruth England. They have to start fires with sticks, eat plants and insects and it’s all set in extreme conditions like the frozen tundra of the Arctic or a danger-at-every-turn rainforest. 
He calls her darling a lot and while you feel they’re in the mix, it’s easy to note there’s a whole TV crew within arms reach.
 
Anyway, it’s a lot of staged drama – but my friend likes it. I said I had true adventure, like during my 2010 tour from Austin, Texas to Wisconsin. Below is a retelling of the experience.
West, Texas – The Senate in Austin passed a bill to legalize noodling, an old southern tradition where Texans catch catfish with their bare hands. Noodling actually involves catching a catfish by finding its underwater den, sticking your hand inside the hole, and when the fish latches on to your arm with its mouth then you haul it out.
One comment among lawmakers during debate on the bill – would noodling with your feet be legal?
On Saturday, I had a nice surprise while sitting outside a grocery in the small town of West, Texas.
A pair of teens, Taylor and Bailey, asked me about the tour and then invited me to go fishing.
We kept it old school, and used poles.
Taylor was a high school junior who wore skinny jeans, a tame Mohawk and liked punk rock.
Bailey was a high school senior, had green spear earrings and a bit of a wanna-be-rebel attitude.
Both were naturally good hearted. We got to the fishing hole in Taylor’s old Plymouth. We had to rearrange a bit – in order to push my bike in the trunk I had to agree to hold a chair in my lap in the front seat.  We also ALL had to lean forward in the vehicle while going up a hill. “Added momentum,” according to Taylor.
Topics of discussion that afternoon ran the gamut from music, to college, to dreams of moving to Colorado.
While fishing we reeled in about a dozen healthy bluegill and then Taylor said, “You can spend the night at my house.”
The whole setup felt so comfortable, I didn’t hesitate to say yes.
We drove about seven miles to the small town of Aquilla, Texas where there was a welcome wagon of seven puppies.
My first red flag popped up when I entered the home and there was the “sweet smell” that uncles Cheech and Chong just left.
And there was Taylor’s mom; I think this was the first she was hearing of her house guest.
It was about 7:30 p.m. and there was still some light left; I grabbed my gloves and headed for my bike.
The drama started as Taylor’s mom came out onto the porch and yelled, “It’s OK Hun, you can stay.”
Then she doppled over to my bike and with glassy eyes explained how she wasn’t sure if “that-damn-Matt’s going to shine around” and she just didn’t want any trouble.
Turns out “that-damn-Matt” was a kid who grew up in the house, but later got into some personal trouble and now was on the run from the law.
Taylor and Bailey were extremely reassuring – everything would be fine – and there was fish to eat, so I reluctantly stayed.
With everybody hungry, the homemade fish dinner quickly changed to pizza and ice cream.
I felt like I was at a party for a five-year-old.
With the edginess on the evening subsiding, we relaxed with a bit of King-of-the-Hill therapy, and I was ready to turn in for the night. 
Taylor showed me to my bedroom. “How do you like this bed,” he said pulling on the metal-pipe headboard. “We got it out of an insane asylum.” The bed was industrial.
“Just kidding,” said Taylor. “We pulled it off the curb.” 
Taylor had a unique personality, he liked to kid. When we were having pizza, he didn’t take any. After a couple minutes, I asked him if he was eating. “Yeah, I’m just waiting. I put poison on the pizza and forgot which half……. just kidding,” he said and loped into the kitchen to grab a plate.

It was prickly humor and it made my eye twitch.
I retired for the night to my One-Flew-Over-the- Cuckoo’s-Nest bedroom. Within a half hour of going to bed my fingers started cramping, I guess I was clutching my pepper spray and flashlight too tight. I flipped the covers on the bed to get more comfortable and heard something like a battery fall to the floor. Managed to find it right away; my bad – it was a bullet.
I stewed; it was one more stake in my flagging morale. I finally brought it to Taylor who was still watching TV. “You found that here? Swear to God we don’t even have a ……” and he stopped mid-sentence.
“That-damn-Matt,” said Taylor.
After a lot of consoling, Taylor and Bailey said everything would be fine. I needed a beer, or 12. I went back to bed and looked to lock the door, but there was no lock. Matter of fact, there wasn’t even a doorknob. An orange sock hung through the hole. I shook my head, put my faith in prayer and pepper spray, and lay down for the night in front of the door.
This was now crazy with a side of crazy.
My friends asked if I thought about leaving, and I did, every hour – 1 o’clock, 2 o’clock….
At 2:30 a.m. I heard the front door slam and shot up in bed.
I listened and before I knew it my bedroom door opened and I was face to face with “That-Damn-Matt”.
I stood up and in that moment Matt went wide-eyed and found religion. “A lady in my bedroom – Thank you Jesus,” he said with a heavy drawl that sounded like Spicoli swallowed a Texan.
Then he let go a low Beavis-and-Butthead laugh.
That-damn-Matt looked 12 years old. He had a round face, shaggy bowl haircut, and said he was ready to party. I was taller, Matt was quick to point out I was older, and I was in no mood. I quickly set my boundaries using my no-nonsense voice, which included dibs on the bedroom. I turned, closed the door and flipped the sock-lock in disgust.
I spent the rest of the night with one eye open and making frequent surveillance trips with my water bottle to the kitchen. During one trip I grabbed a fillet knife off the counter and slept with it under my pillow.
At 5:30 a.m. I left with the thought, it’s all part of the adventure.