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Crazy American

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Spent the night at a campgrounds just south of Genova. I found the hills on my way – the camping is two kilometers above the primary road.

I stopped and asked a man if I was halfway there. The sweat was streaming down my face and stinging my eyes. He says “yes, yes” and then made a muscle with his arm and said, “You can do it. Strong like bull!”

Camping for one person is 6. It’s a sweet bargain for a safe place to stay. If you want to put up a tent it’s another 7. I asked the guy how that worked. “If you don’t have a tent and want to sleep under the stars, it’s still another 7,” he said.

_____________________________

I met three motorcyclists from Poland; they camped next to me. American movie stars they noted were Al Pacino and John Travolta. Music? “We no like Justin Bieber.”

They heard of Oprah, but not Ellen. They did not know what a Kardashian was and when I tried to explain Bruce “Caityln” Jenner, they really did think ‘crazy American.’

That’s a lot of trust in clothespins!

My Apartment for the Night

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This is my apartment for the night. You can hear the whine of motorbikes in the distance as well as the PA from the soccer field. Comfortable temps and a few friendly mosquitoes.


Saturday Photos from the Road; South of Genova

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Riding through rice paddies
Church in San Giovanni Battista

Coast in Genova

Camping tonight just south of Genova. The camp site was located conveniently up a 2k hill. I climbed until the hill wouldn’t quit and neither would the sun. 

Funny the sign at the entrance said, €6 for one person but the charge was €13. It’s €7 for the tent, even if you brought your own.  

Done for the day. I’m sure I’m still a little jet lagged and just pushing itEarly to bed with my little fan; it’s the one small luxury I carry on the trip – and totally worth it. 

A big shout out of thanks to all my sponsors.  Without you we would not be able to have such a significant impact on Alzheimer’s in the community.

An Italian “Brewski”

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An Italian beer or two tonight. Left Zima relatively early, spun through some small towns where you could smell the aroma of morning cafe. Bike is holding up well and I’m getting more familiar with signs and map reading, except in Alessandria where I was turned about for two hours. Finally hopped the train for €10 (I was €7 and my bike was €3). I totally slept on the train. The ticket taker wanted to know why my ticket wasn’t stamped and he said he could arrest me. There was quick forgiveness and then another young lady woke me up at my stop. “Or you’re really going to get in hot water if you don’t have a ticket to go back.” The woman spoke great English. “I’m taking a night course,” she said.

We talked about the biking adventure. “Solo,” she asked. I’ll take any input on how to get around that question.

Made it to Genova and down the coast a bit to Nervi. 

Feeling Woozy

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Headed to work this morning. Leaving Castello.




I’ve got 30 miles on the day so far. Not sure if it’s the heat, the fact I’ve been lost in Alessandria the last two hours or the hose water I drank at the cemetery is making me a little woozy. Going with Plan B and catching the train 98 km to Genova.


Lomello Farmer’s Market

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About 7 miles in the morning and I run into this farmers market in the city centre in Lomello.  Beautiful colors on the tables teaming with ripe fruits and vegetables.  There are two food trucks; one is a butcher with meats, cheeses and dead  birds, plucked and ready for the pot – heads and claws and all.  

The underwear guy is here, too.  Must be a European thing…..  Big bras and panties.  


The man at the fruit stand hands me a huge orange in a plastic bag – a gift for breakfast . The nicest people here supplementing my vitamin C!
A few more market pics…

Last Night’s Nest

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My nest from last night. Slept in yard by late 1800 home with waterwheel in back.

That’s the no trespassing sign at the front gate. Glad I didn’t see the rattlesnake sheddings until I was packing to go. 



48 miles in on Friday. Headed to the coast today.

Silvia and Some Splendido Spaghetti

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Friday, June 5:
Late start on the road today as I needed a map, money, and time to settle the score on my phone.

Nice breakfast of a cream-filled croissant at the cafe at Hotel Rosy got me going.  By 10 a.m. I was finally on the road and headed south out of Milan, making my way to Genova. 

Weather is perfect, sunny and hot. Milan south to Vigevano to Mortara to Casale. My goal is Alessandria but I’m running out of daylight and while stopping for a quick refuel in Mortara a bunch of rummies outside the local pub take a fancy to my bike.

“Americano,” they say and then the questions start. Nice enough group of guys, but wrong situation for me.  “Are you solo?”  That’s a difficult question to dodge, but one I’d rather not answer.  We take a couple photos and I’m on the road again looking for a spot to camp. 

About five miles down the road I see a huge stone fence. I’ve visited a couple cemeteries already and decided to swing up the gravel drive to check it out. Gorgeous headstones with black-and-white photos about as large as a silver dollar; ornate mausoleums. 

I eat a slab of greasy salami from the deli in the last town as I make the rounds. As I exit, so does a young woman and her 80-something grandmother. We chat a bit and I roll out my note from the plane where, written in Italian, I have the request to sleep on the floor. 

The women mull it over.  There’s a lot of fast Italian talk and then the younger one, Silvia, 35, says,”My aunt knows of an abandoned home up the road. We could check and see if you can stay there.” 

I look down the dirt road they point to – it goes back into the woods and I think to myself “this is seriously awesome.”

The house is about 500 meters down a soft sand road. We get to the gate and it’s locked. There’s a big red and white sign written in Italian. Even I know it says “no trespassing.”

The older lady, Erminia, gives it a good shake. She’s rather mighty for someone small and frail.  Silvia and I chat.  Her English is good and then we hear a metal clink; grandma’s got the gate open and she’s 10 steps up the pebble driveway.  

Silvia explains how she knew the property owner.  We let her go, thinking she’ll be back shortly. 

That Erminia is a bulldog.  We hear her shout, and by the time we get up the walk she’s befriended the caretaker and his wife and secured me a spot in their yard. 

Mary and Louie seem a little wary of fast-talking grandma but there’s a lot of laughing and cooing to their baby Isabelle and it feels like we’re making headway. 

Silvia explains I can make my nest in their yard and take a shower when I’m ready.  They’ve graciously offered me dinner so i don’t have to search out a market. 

Mary is originally from Romania. “I haven’t spoken English for 10 years,” she said.  Louie doesn’t speak English at all; when I try to include him in the conversation he just points to his wife. 

The couple is in their 30s.  Mary works and Louie stays home with the baby. They take care of the home, which belongs to an artist in Milan and her musician husband. 

Mary whips up spaghetti with a sauce of olives and fish, and cuts some thick slices of red tomato layered with a meaty hunk of fresh mozzarella on top finished with a drizzle of olive oil and a touch of rosemary. 

We eat in shifts as there’s only room for two at the table; it’s me and Louie first. Mary leaves to throw my clothes in the laundry.  You can tell Louie is nervous; he focuses on his food. 

Louie eagerly takes the baby upon Mary’s return.  She talks about her family, how her parents moved to Italy and how they’d like to have another child. 

It’s 9 p.m. before I crawl into my tent feeling tired, but well fed and safe for the night. 

Tidbits

-I learn later the reason it wasn’t safe to stay in the cemetery overnight was because of the growing heroin problem in Italy. 

-The roads have been relatively flat so far as I’ve pedaled past a lot of well-irrigated rice fields.

Two Parents and a Tandem

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I wrote this story in 2006 when my parents had a little more dexterity and Evel Knievel enthusiasm. Even back then I was looking for ways to incorporate exercise as a method of slowing Alzheimer’s. 








Unconventional training      August 6, 2006     By Judy Steffes 
  
In an effort to prepare for September’s bicycle tour I’ve mixed in a bit of unconventional training this weekend pedaling a tandem, alone, from West Bend to Milwaukee. 

I bought the bike for my parents and it’s a bit of an antique.  A chipped license plate sticker from the City of Milwaukee is wrapped around the main frame; it reads “Expires April 30, 1979.”

The rusty orange-colored single speed has coaster breaks and weighs about 75 pounds. Pump up the tires and the rig glides, like an anvil on Flintstone wheels.  

Shy a vehicle large enough to haul the Schwinn Twinn, I decided to move it myself. 
  
I set out at noon on Saturday.  The tour, which normally takes me two hour on my 21-speed road bike, took about three hours.  By the time I made it to the Whitefish Bay Public Library I was ready to apply the booster rocket.  My six-year-old nephew Robby climbed on board and we pedaled the remaining 10 blocks to my parents’ house. 
  
After the surprise was unveiled I handed the ‘orange blossom special’ over to my 83-year-old father. He climbed on board, a bit unsteady. 

The cheers of eight grandchildren were mixed with the low rumbling, yet vocal, concerns of my siblings.  My Dad is obviously aging; his dexterity is antiquated, as is his memory.  

I had attached a small compass labeled “GPS” on the handlebars.  “Grandparent Positioning System,” I told my sisters with a grin.  My siblings found little humor in the device.  

I also bought my parents helmets.  “Old people don’t hit their heads, they break their hips,” said my younger brother John.  I told him he could be in charge of finding hip pads. He instead ran inside to hunt for the parent’s insurance policy. 
  
After a brief solo spin, my Dad expressed confidence that “Mother” could try the back seat.  We needed to get wrenches and lower the orange and white seat for my Mom who is 5-feet tall and constantly shrinking.  
  
After teetering start and some wary glances, my sisters picked up their children, moving them to the safety of higher ground.  

My sister Nancy, the nurse, yelled for the parents to wait while she went inside to grab the phone.  

Nancy said she just wanted to be safe.  She positioned herself staunchly by the curb and dialed 9…1….  Her thumb hovered over the remaining ‘1.’  FEMA would be impressed with her dedication to emergency preparedness. 
  
Stumbling to a start, the Steffes Express slowly built steam.  They looked like two circus bears rolling down the sidewalk.  My Dad riding like he was sitting atop his old Farmall tractor, my Mother, her body hunched over, clutching the sparkly plastic handle grips with her seat completely engulfing the orange saddle.  “For better or worse,” she whispered as she passed. It sounded like a desperate reminder of how she got herself into this situation. 

My brother gave up on his search for insurance policies and was now racing to take the training wheels off his daughter’s two-wheeler and transfer them to the tandem. 
  
Moving with confidence down the block, the parents turned back into the driveway grinning and sweating.  “Give us a couple of days and we’ll be pulling even, like a good team of horses,” said my Dad who grew up on a farm in St. Cloud. 
  
Inside the house kids played, we drank lemonade and my Dad asked more than once how I got the bike and how much he owed me.  “It’s a gift dad, from the kids,” I said, feeling his reluctance to accept such a treasure.  
  
My Dad was the one who sparked my interest in bikes. When we were kids he built a ‘baby seat bike.’  It was a blue, lady’s Schwinn with four bicycle seats mounted to the frame; a seat for each little girl.  One seat in front of the handle bars, one wedged behind the handlebars and two seats behind the driver.  The caboose was a piece of wood, cut to look like a bike seat but shy any cushion.  The kid in diapers was the one who got the splintery assignment in the back row. 
  
Off we’d go on a Saturday afternoon, my Dad in his dark socks and fishing cap and the girls with smiles and ponytails for protection.  

I never remember falling or crashing; we had complete trust in the driver.  

We were pulled over once by the cops in Shorewood.  “The nerve of you, breaking all the rules and riding RIGHT IN FRONT of the police station,” scolded the officer.  As the story goes, my Dad couldn’t figure out what rules he was breaking and simply pedaled away telling the dumbfounded officer, “arrest me.” 
  
As the tandem party wrapped up and everyone packed to leave, my Mom ran to show us her latest discovery.  She came back with a DVD.  “Have you guys seen this??” she said holding up the video box for the 2004 movie Napoleon Dynamite.  “This is the best movie,” she laughed. 
  
My brother shook his head and sighed in disgust, “I better find those hip pads soon before they decide to take that bike over some sweet jumps.”

1st Day in Italy: Pic Gallery

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Photo gallery from first day in Italy: 
(L) A bit of street art from Italy. It was on the walls as I came out of a tunnel on a bike path in Milan. Lots of blind turns on the path and other bicyclists whistling a warning or giving a courtesy ring on their bell. I feel at home; so many people from my tribe. The streets are full of bikers of all ages. Amazing how fit the senior citizens are!
(R)The man in the photo was my tour guide who led me to Hotel Rosy.
I admired his artwork, in particular the snake dragon wrapped around a woman in a bikini. Classic. I mentioned ‘photo’ and he started taking off his clothes.
Does photo mean something different in Italian?
Hotel Rosy was comfortable, clean and a quiet place to get well rested before my big adventure.
Tidbits: 
-I still need to find a map. Managed to get out of the airport and to Milan just by feeling the roads, reading signs and enjoying the fact I was bicycling in Italy.
-I have a bidet in my room at Hotel Rosy. It classes up the joint.
-That’s my stinky jersey hanging from my shoelace laundry line in the one window in my room at Hotel Rosy.
-Sunny and hot, right around 80.
-Ciao!