The underwear guy is here, too. Must be a European thing….. Big bras and panties.
The man at the fruit stand hands me a huge orange in a plastic bag – a gift for breakfast . The nicest people here supplementing my vitamin C!
The underwear guy is here, too. Must be a European thing….. Big bras and panties.
Nice breakfast of a cream-filled croissant at the cafe at Hotel Rosy got me going. By 10 a.m. I was finally on the road and headed south out of Milan, making my way to Genova.
Weather is perfect, sunny and hot. Milan south to Vigevano to Mortara to Casale. My goal is Alessandria but I’m running out of daylight and while stopping for a quick refuel in Mortara a bunch of rummies outside the local pub take a fancy to my bike.
About five miles down the road I see a huge stone fence. I’ve visited a couple cemeteries already and decided to swing up the gravel drive to check it out. Gorgeous headstones with black-and-white photos about as large as a silver dollar; ornate mausoleums.
I eat a slab of greasy salami from the deli in the last town as I make the rounds. As I exit, so does a young woman and her 80-something grandmother. We chat a bit and I roll out my note from the plane where, written in Italian, I have the request to sleep on the floor.
The women mull it over. There’s a lot of fast Italian talk and then the younger one, Silvia, 35, says,”My aunt knows of an abandoned home up the road. We could check and see if you can stay there.”
I look down the dirt road they point to – it goes back into the woods and I think to myself “this is seriously awesome.”
The house is about 500 meters down a soft sand road. We get to the gate and it’s locked. There’s a big red and white sign written in Italian. Even I know it says “no trespassing.”
The older lady, Erminia, gives it a good shake. She’s rather mighty for someone small and frail. Silvia and I chat. Her English is good and then we hear a metal clink; grandma’s got the gate open and she’s 10 steps up the pebble driveway.
Silvia explains how she knew the property owner. We let her go, thinking she’ll be back shortly.
That Erminia is a bulldog. We hear her shout, and by the time we get up the walk she’s befriended the caretaker and his wife and secured me a spot in their yard.
Mary and Louie seem a little wary of fast-talking grandma but there’s a lot of laughing and cooing to their baby Isabelle and it feels like we’re making headway.
Silvia explains I can make my nest in their yard and take a shower when I’m ready. They’ve graciously offered me dinner so i don’t have to search out a market.
Mary is originally from Romania. “I haven’t spoken English for 10 years,” she said. Louie doesn’t speak English at all; when I try to include him in the conversation he just points to his wife.
The couple is in their 30s. Mary works and Louie stays home with the baby. They take care of the home, which belongs to an artist in Milan and her musician husband.
Mary whips up spaghetti with a sauce of olives and fish, and cuts some thick slices of red tomato layered with a meaty hunk of fresh mozzarella on top finished with a drizzle of olive oil and a touch of rosemary.
We eat in shifts as there’s only room for two at the table; it’s me and Louie first. Mary leaves to throw my clothes in the laundry. You can tell Louie is nervous; he focuses on his food.
Louie eagerly takes the baby upon Mary’s return. She talks about her family, how her parents moved to Italy and how they’d like to have another child.
Tidbits
-I learn later the reason it wasn’t safe to stay in the cemetery overnight was because of the growing heroin problem in Italy.
I wrote this story in 2006 when my parents had a little more dexterity and Evel Knievel enthusiasm. Even back then I was looking for ways to incorporate exercise as a method of slowing Alzheimer’s.
I bought the bike for my parents and it’s a bit of an antique. A chipped license plate sticker from the City of Milwaukee is wrapped around the main frame; it reads “Expires April 30, 1979.”
The rusty orange-colored single speed has coaster breaks and weighs about 75 pounds. Pump up the tires and the rig glides, like an anvil on Flintstone wheels.
Shy a vehicle large enough to haul the Schwinn Twinn, I decided to move it myself.
I set out at noon on Saturday. The tour, which normally takes me two hour on my 21-speed road bike, took about three hours. By the time I made it to the Whitefish Bay Public Library I was ready to apply the booster rocket. My six-year-old nephew Robby climbed on board and we pedaled the remaining 10 blocks to my parents’ house.
After the surprise was unveiled I handed the ‘orange blossom special’ over to my 83-year-old father. He climbed on board, a bit unsteady.
The cheers of eight grandchildren were mixed with the low rumbling, yet vocal, concerns of my siblings. My Dad is obviously aging; his dexterity is antiquated, as is his memory.
I had attached a small compass labeled “GPS” on the handlebars. “Grandparent Positioning System,” I told my sisters with a grin. My siblings found little humor in the device.
I also bought my parents helmets. “Old people don’t hit their heads, they break their hips,” said my younger brother John. I told him he could be in charge of finding hip pads. He instead ran inside to hunt for the parent’s insurance policy.
After a brief solo spin, my Dad expressed confidence that “Mother” could try the back seat. We needed to get wrenches and lower the orange and white seat for my Mom who is 5-feet tall and constantly shrinking.
After teetering start and some wary glances, my sisters picked up their children, moving them to the safety of higher ground.
My sister Nancy, the nurse, yelled for the parents to wait while she went inside to grab the phone.
Nancy said she just wanted to be safe. She positioned herself staunchly by the curb and dialed 9…1…. Her thumb hovered over the remaining ‘1.’ FEMA would be impressed with her dedication to emergency preparedness.
Stumbling to a start, the Steffes Express slowly built steam. They looked like two circus bears rolling down the sidewalk. My Dad riding like he was sitting atop his old Farmall tractor, my Mother, her body hunched over, clutching the sparkly plastic handle grips with her seat completely engulfing the orange saddle. “For better or worse,” she whispered as she passed. It sounded like a desperate reminder of how she got herself into this situation.
My brother gave up on his search for insurance policies and was now racing to take the training wheels off his daughter’s two-wheeler and transfer them to the tandem.
Moving with confidence down the block, the parents turned back into the driveway grinning and sweating. “Give us a couple of days and we’ll be pulling even, like a good team of horses,” said my Dad who grew up on a farm in St. Cloud.
Inside the house kids played, we drank lemonade and my Dad asked more than once how I got the bike and how much he owed me. “It’s a gift dad, from the kids,” I said, feeling his reluctance to accept such a treasure.
My Dad was the one who sparked my interest in bikes. When we were kids he built a ‘baby seat bike.’ It was a blue, lady’s Schwinn with four bicycle seats mounted to the frame; a seat for each little girl. One seat in front of the handle bars, one wedged behind the handlebars and two seats behind the driver. The caboose was a piece of wood, cut to look like a bike seat but shy any cushion. The kid in diapers was the one who got the splintery assignment in the back row.
Off we’d go on a Saturday afternoon, my Dad in his dark socks and fishing cap and the girls with smiles and ponytails for protection.
I never remember falling or crashing; we had complete trust in the driver.
We were pulled over once by the cops in Shorewood. “The nerve of you, breaking all the rules and riding RIGHT IN FRONT of the police station,” scolded the officer. As the story goes, my Dad couldn’t figure out what rules he was breaking and simply pedaled away telling the dumbfounded officer, “arrest me.”
As the tandem party wrapped up and everyone packed to leave, my Mom ran to show us her latest discovery. She came back with a DVD. “Have you guys seen this??” she said holding up the video box for the 2004 movie Napoleon Dynamite. “This is the best movie,” she laughed.
My brother shook his head and sighed in disgust, “I better find those hip pads soon before they decide to take that bike over some sweet jumps.”
What's an adventure without some unexpected challenges along the way. Got my
international SIM card at the airport and now I'm locked out of my phone. On top of that, the wedge, a small piece that holds the handlebars in place, wiggled
itself loose in transit and, at this time, is lost on an adventure of its own.
I decided to risk it and pedal to find a bike store. It's a good test for my
rusty Italian. I normally start out with the introduction, "Any English?," then
generally charade my way through from there.
After 10 miles of gut-check mapping I got a guided tour to one of the oldest
hole-in-the-wall bike shops I'd ever seen.
The business belonged to Isa and Diano.
She wore a white, stretched-out tank top and stored her cheaters on top of her
head. He had a random collection of inner tubes and a crowded workbench.
Isa fixed me up quickly. I was slightly nervous he may not have the part.
Technology and design have changed so much since my horse was manufactured
in 1982.
The bike fix went fast and then I spent the next half hour trying to figure out my route with Isa and Diano.
More later - the phone shop is opening and I'd better hop to it. Weather is
sunny and 80s.
Internet Angel: Bought a SIM card to work in Italy. Didn’t work, so bought a new phone to make work. Now I have three phones and still no connection. Went to return phone and ran into this Internet Angel. Raimondo spoke perfect English. He followed me to two stores until I got it fixed. I asked a lady if she could take a photo of me with my new boyfriend. She did. That woman was his real girlfriend. smile emoticon
Oh well. I think I wooed him a bit with my enthusiasm and stinky jersey.
I asked, and he politely declined my invitation to come along.
New York – Finally some down time. I’ve used it to take a brief nap and then pen some ‘thank you’ cards. People have been so generous and supportive of the tour and the cause. It seems everybody has a link to Alzheimer’s or dementia.
I had the stamps, envelopes, and addresses and, while at JFK airport in New York, thought I’d send them off before flying out.
“No ma’am, we don’t have any postal at the airport,” said the attendant at American Airlines.
And so it went. I asked a couple with luggage if they were remaining in the states and if they could mail. They were off to Europe, too. “Just keep asking,” said the small woman with a backpack.
I approached an officer. “Ever since 9-11 they took that out,” he said.
The officer told me to keep asking, too. He said it at the same time the message came over the PA about being aware of people asking you to take things.
I then asked a security guy named Hans. “I’d be happy to help,” he said. “As a country we’ve gotta get past this 9-11 thing and start living our lives and helping people rather than living in fear of each other.”
Today, Hans is my hero!